Friday afternoon, nothing else to do, so I caught a plane to Lisbon.

Lisbon overlooking the old city and harbor area

Some thought it a sudden decision. I knew otherwise. Portugal had long been a dreamed about destination. It was as if I had always wanted to go there, but somehow never would. There is the mental picture of myself, already in my 30's but on my first international trip, listening in starstruck awe while an elegant 70-year-old grand dame, a verteran of classic, upper-class european travel, mesmerized me with wonderful tales of her many trips to Portugal. On other occasions I listened in envy to the stories of a friend who grew up in Brazil, spoke fluent Portuguese, and had taveled throughout Portugal. I dreamed of Lisbon as a quiet, old-world enclave in modern Europe where I could roam twisting, winding cobblestone streets, eat fabulous seafood for almost nothing, and indulge in melancholy and romance listening to mournful fado.

Eventually I wondered if I would ever see Portugal. Then suddenly two planned trips fell through and a tempting off arrived in the mail. A phone call later I had reservations. A few days later I was on a plane.

Old dreams never match modern reality, and I never found that sleepy Lisbon. Instead I found an energetic city, busy primping and sprucing for Expo '98, the last world Exposition of this millennium. A new metro was almost complete, hotel expansion was proceeding furiously, and everyone was excited about Lisbon's new presence and prominence in European consciousness.

But spruced and spiffy did not mean Lisbon's heart had changed. My pension was the sort of place that led to dreams of an older time. It was ideally located in the old, pedestrian-only center of the city. My room had a four-poster bed of dark wood with matching table stands and a dresser, while the bathroom displayed walls of vintage Portuguese tiles. In the lounge I had wonderful coffee for breakfast with rolls and jams. By the middle of the week, I was served my "usual" without asking, and when I had to leave for the airport at a very early hour, my breakfast was waiting for me. I could not thank our cook in Portuguese, but hugs and a gift communicated my feelings.

Old and new mix constantly in today's Lisbon. A modern building houses the important Gulbekian Museum, and the Expo grounds are spacious and served by an excellent public transportation system. But it is still possible to wander the steeply winding cobblestone streets of the old Alfama or follow the trail of local fado bars in the Barrio Alto by listening to the mournful songs. There is the venerable Solar do Vinho do Porto, complete with huge overstuffed chairs, tall ceilings, a fireplace for winter evenings, and a menu listing the hundreds of ports available for sampling. My daily rituals began to include a lage afternoon stop for an aperitif, and an after dinner indulgance. By the end of my stay I had tried everything from the delicate white ports before dinner to an absolutely outstanding 1963 Romariz at the evening's end. For that discovery I thank Senor Carlos Cortez who oversees his domain with barely cocealed distain. Still, he did indulge my request for something he considers very special.

Quaint trolley cars go up and down Lisbon's hills, and the views alone are enough reason to take a long ride to nowhere in particular. I took the trolley to the top of the Alfama, wandered to the Castelo Sao Jorge, the city's castle, and joined Lisboans and other tourists for a spectacular sunset on the highest of Lisbon's hills. My hardest decision of the day was after sunset. Which of Lisbon's many excellent restaurants to choose? It is hard to go wrong, but one absolutely delightful place is the Cervejaria da Trindade. Some of the beautiful Portuguese tiles covering the walls are from the original convent destroyed in the great earthquake of 1755. The beer is poured from ceramic taps, as the brewery dates from 1834. My dinner, complemented with a refreshing vinho verde, was of fresh vegetables, tasty bread and absolutely huge prawns, all served by a charming waiter.

I had been forwarned: gracious and hospitable Lisboans become transformed behind the wheel of a car. Thankfully there is an excellent infrastructure. Buses take you almost everywhere. Old-fashioned trolleys are a delightful way to see the city. Trains are frequent, reliable, and inexpensive, making it easy to see more of Portugal. My first excursion was to the must-see town of Sintra. There is really too much to see in one day. A couple of friendly Brits, taking a weekend off from their work as Kodak consultants, helped me make the most of my day. It was sunny, clear and hot, so after touring the Sintra Palace we took the bus up to the enormous and ungainly Pena Palace, perhaps more beautiful and striking from a distance, but with an unequalled view of the surrounding country. From there it is a short walk down to the ruins of the Moorish castle. Climbing the rouins can be arduous, especially in 90-degree heat, but there is another wonderful view as a reward. Another reward is the nice outdoor cafe in town across from the Sintra Palace, where the ice cream servings are genreous, the pastries tasty, and the tea very refreshing. Stopping in Alcantara for seafood dining along the harbor was the perfect way to end a long day.

Visiting the charming coastal towns of Cascais and Estoril so close to Lisbon was another delight. It is the Meterranean on the Atlantic: brilliant blue sky and blinding bright sunshine, weathered fisherman in the harbor bringing in the day's catch and tonight's dinner, waterfront cafes and vendors.

Historic Belem demands a full day. The smart tourist plans in advance and buys a Lisboa card. It covers all transportation in 24 hours plus museum admissions. I, however, took the train and then walked, and walked and walked -- in 90-degree heat. There are many not-to-be-missed sights in Belem including the unusual Carriage Museum and the the magnificent Mosteiro dos Jeronimos with the serene (and cool) cloisters. Its architecture is that unique Portuguese blend of gothic/manueline/baroque perhaps best described as ornate overkill. the bird's eye view of the cathedral alone is\ worth climbing all the stairs.

Belem is the center of Portugal's historic greatness. From here the great explorers set sail. This is the home of Henry the Navigator and Vasco de Gama whose tombs can be seen in the Mosteiro, and the center of what was once the richest country in the world. Across the Praca do Imperio is the fittingly impressive, massive Memorial to the Discoveries, built like the prow of a ship with all the great discovers looking out to sea. Despite its prominence, and the large square surrounding it, there are almost no vendors. AThe monument is built on the edge of the Atlantic, and it is possible to sit and feel the adventure and daring of these great men. A bit further is the historic Tower of Blem that once stood sentry over Lisbon's harbor. It was closed during my visit, but the delightful outdoor cafe nearby was not. Freshly prepared, tasty food helped revive me for a little further exploration. The Museu de Marinha (Maritime Museum) is a must-see for sailing buffs, and worthwile for landlubbers as well.

My trip was over and it was time to go home. The Lisbon of my dreams was very special. It still exists -- we always have our dreams. Only now I know another wonderfue Lisbon -- the Lisbon of today.